Temple Jewellery

Classical and traditional in its appearance, this exquisite style of jewellery once used to adorn the idols of Indian deities in the temples, also used occasionally by the devadasis during special dance performances , and even royalties, for whom jewels were a statement
of power, prosperity and prestige. It thrived under the patronage of the Cholas, Pandyaas and the Krishnadeva Raya dynasties from the 9th century till the 16th century.

Temple jewellery-making is a very exclusive art form which originated in Vadaserry, in Nagercoil district and is also called Vadaserry Sets. It is characterised by some of the finest handwork, painfully crafted by skilled craftsmen and jewellers.The basic frame is crafted in gold, after which the uncut (pacchakallu) or cabochon (cushion-shaped) rubies, emeralds, uncut diamonds, sapphires, jade stones and pearls are set in place using a natural waxy gum called Arraku, followed by laying gold leaf in the spaces.

Over the years, availability and affordability of the jewellery became a major factor, hence, less expensive types of temple jewellery emerged. One, made in silver and covered with gold leaf and the other, are imitations made with copper and finished with gold polish.

Precious stones are replaced with the kemp stones which are glass cabochons (glass, colored using natural colours). Although Kemp means red colour, the Kemp stones used in this jewellery can also be green or blue. Spinels which are cheaper are increasingly used in place of kemp. As imitation temple jewellery is made without precious metals and stones, one gets the intricacy and beauty of the traditional artwork without the high cost.

Some of the intricate ornaments of this type of jewellery are -

• Maalais decorated with floral shapes, birds and statuettes (swans, peacocks, parrots , mangoes and deities) 
• Padaikams (pendants for long necklaces) 
• Addigai (is short collar necklace that has big uncut stones without any motifs) 
• Nethi chutti (a hair ornament) 
• Odiyanam (belt) 
• Thodu (earring) 
• Bullakku (nose ring) 
• Suryan and Chandra hair ornaments, are meant to evoke the blessings of the sun and the moon, respectively. 
• Rakodi placed on top of the hair bun 
• Jhumuki (earrings) 

This type of jewellery is in fashion and is traditionally worn on auspicious occasions, festivals and are part of the Indian woman's bridal jewellery trousseau. Although the original designs continue to remain the same, smaller and more delicate pieces are popular which better suit the aesthetics of women today. A distinct form of temple jewellery, also known as Kemp set, is worn by Bharatanatyam , Odissi, Kuchupudi etc, dancers during performances.​